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The mountain on two wheels: the Overview of the Passes

written by Bodhirider

Bergamo and its valleys offer miles and miles of climbs and descents that – curve after curve – are ideal for riding your motorcycle.

Here are some ideas for an itinerary that will satisfy your passion for two wheels and your desire to be immersed in the nature, enjoying priceless views.

Starting out! Step #1

The overview of the passes crosses three territories, starting in Valtellina, passing through much of the province of Bergamo, trespassing on Brescian soil, and then ending in Bergamo.
We start from Morbegno, Valtellina, and immediately start climbing towards San Marco Pass.
A pass that possesses an ancient flavor. As you climb you breathe in that sense of achievement that many other more famous passes have lost.
Maybe it’s that ever-ruined asphalt, an accordion-like road that opens and then narrows, the curves and breathtaking scenery with the backdrop of the Rhaetian Alps, or perhaps that crisp air that even in the middle of August lashes the face. The San Marco remains in the heart!

From Morbegno we cross the Bitto Valley, or Bitto valleys, plural, because there are two, the one leading to Gerola Alta and the one in Albaredo that leads up to the San Marco Pass.
The bitto Is a famous typical cheese, absolutely a must try. Some may think that the valleys are named after the cheese, but the opposite is true; it is the cheese that was named after the valleys. The name comes from the Bitto stream that runs through them.
The road leading to the pass and onward into the Val Brembana has ancient origins: it is the famous Via Priula, the ancient trade road built in 1593 by the Venetian podestà Alvise Priuli, with the purpose of connecting the Po Valley with the Valtellina and the transalpine, so as to avoid the passage of trade caravans into the hostile territories of the Duchy of Milan.
The marble plaque with the lion of St. Mark, at the top of the pass, commemorates the rule of the Republic of Venice.
Once over the pass, the coffee stop at the hut is a ritual that no one can skip.

We then descend into the Brembana Valley towards Mezzoldo, to follow Piazza Brembana, San Giovanni Bianco finally Zogno. We turn left, following the signs for the Zambla Pass, first crossing the beautiful gorge of Bracca accompanied by rocks and rivulets of water crossing the road.
The 2.5-kilometer-long gorge, carved by the Ambria Creek, dates back to 1882 and required a decade of work.
In winter, a striking natural phenomenon can be seen, the galaverna, or the crystallization of solid surfaces that create a fairy-tale landscape.
It continues through Algua, Serina, Valpiana, Oltre il Colle and thus reaches the Zambla Pass.

Small detour to Serina, birthplace of Jacopo Nigretti, in art Palma the Elder. Painter who, according to Vasari, influenced Leonardo Da Vinci and Michelangelo Buonarroti and whose works are now in prestigious museums, the Louvre, the Hermitage, the National Gallery and the Gemäldegalerie.

Step No.2

We descend toward the Seriana Valley, Oneta, Gorno, and we reach Val del Riso. At the Ponte Nossa junction we leave the signs for Clusone and the Presolana Pass on our left, following the signs for Bergamo. We turn back across the entire valley until we reach the town of Albino and the signs “Valle del Lujo”. To help you take the black shed of the Scorpion Bay clothing company as a reference. Well-known company also known to us riders.

We continue following the signs for Valle del Lujo, pass Fiobbio, Casale, and finally arrive at the Gallo Pass.

Small variation: The Shrine of Altino

Reaching Colle Gallo on the left is a road that leads to the Sanctuary of Altino. If you have time and desire I recommend, before continuing, to take this road and reach the Sanctuary, the beauty of the view over the middle Seriana Valley, the beauty of the place of worship, a little gem, will surely repay you for the detour.

“…The origins of the Shrine of Altino date back to a prodigious event that occurred on a scorching day of July 23, 1496. An inhabitant of Vall’Alta, named Quinto Foglia, was in the company of his two sons on the slopes of Mount Altino (from which the Sanctuary takes its name) intent on working in the woods.
The day was muggy, the land parched from that year’s prolonged drought; frustrated by the exertions and scorching heat, Quintus Foglia and his two little sons were seized with great thirst.
Not knowing what to do, with his children in danger of dying in those woods, Quinto Foglia turned with great confidence to the Mother of Heaven so that she could rescue him in that most serious difficulty. The prayer was answered, Our Lady appeared and told Quinto Foglia to beat the rock in front of him with his sickle.
Miraculously a gush of spring water gushed out….” taken from http://www.santuarioaltino.it/

The road in question is not much, so absolute caution. After a short visit, pick up the road you came from and return to the Gallo Pass.

Step No.3

Upon reaching Rooster Hill, a “sacred” place for cyclists, it is possible to visit the small museum of the memories of cyclists: memorabilia, trophies, photographs, jerseys of champions and the bicycles, some are real cult pieces.
The descent to the Val Cavallina through Gaverina Terme, until we reach Vigano S.Martino and the exit for Grone. Here we start heading toward the St. Fermo Hills. From now on we will have to go straight ahead, at the beginning a lot of attention in crossing the village, following that attention to the first hairpin bends, very narrow, some coming out will have a challenging slope, the road then continues through bends, pastures, hairpin bends, woods, more bends, small villages, more green until we reach the last hairpin bends.

Reaching the Hills we can stop in the parking lot on the right, leaning out we will have a heavenly view, the switchbacks just made. Let’s get back in the saddle, but not to descend, just after the parking lot we take the first road on our left and climb to the refuge. Now a little stop is necessary to breathe and catch our breath after the enjoyment of the road we just took.

Past Colli S. Fermo begins the descent towards Villongo, more curves, hairpin bends and beautiful scenery to surround us as we pass through villages such as Adrara S.Martino. We follow the signs for Villongo or Sarnico. When we reach the usually busy traffic circle we turn left to enjoy the beautiful Lake Iseo and the road from Sarnico to Lovere, passing through the villages along the lake: Tavernola and then Riva di Solto, from here begins, in my opinion, the most characteristic part of the road to Lovere, the unforgettable Bogn gorge.
Immediately after the port of Lovere at the stop sign we turn left and go up until we reach the traffic circle where we take the second exit towards Clusone.

La Val Borlezza is waiting for us, if you are not yet tired of curves here you will find bread for your teeth!

Be careful the road passes through and cuts through villages that are worth a stop such as Cerete, where you can admire the Marinoni Chapel and mills.

When you reach Clusone, you go up to the Pace of the Presolana.

Step #4

After the pass you descend into Val of Scalve, direction Schilpario, from here the road to the Vivione Pass begins. Don’t worry the curves are not over you are only halfway there.
The Vivione Pass is perhaps one of the most underrated passes I know. Rewarding for the unforgettable view of the Orobie.

Step No. 5

After passes, twists and turns, we descend into the Camonica Valley. Once in Forno Allione, take the Tonale state road towards Darfo Boario Terme to climb to the Presolana Pass, where the tour will end.
Not before riding your motorcycle in one of the most beautiful places in the area.
The ancient “Via Mala”.

“… The Via Mala is one of the most scenic and spectacular mountain arteries in Europe: an evocative entrance to the fortress of Val di Scalve, a treasure chest rich in uncontaminated natural resources and the custodian of a special historical and architectural heritage of considerable value. This is the Provincial Road ex SS n. 294 that, straddling the provinces of Brescia and Bergamo, crosses the municipalities of Angolo Terme, Azzone, Colere, Vilminore and Schilpario, an exciting “portal” of entry to the vast area of the Orobie Park….” taken from http://www.viamala.it/

When you reach Azzone, turn left to take the road back to the Presolana Pass, redoing the same road in reverse.
At the Presolana Pass, in the presence of the queen of the Orobie Mountains the “Panoramica dei Passi” ends.

A possible variant is to skip the Presolana Pass at the end and find a fair rest on the Lake Iseo.

In this case you will have to continue on the Tonale state road, passing the two tunnels, take the first exit on the right, and continue following the signs for Lovere.

The route is truly an enjoyment because of all the curves we can take, I recommend extreme caution and adequate speed because we pass through places that are also very busy. Respect for the limits comes first.

This itinerary can be accomplished in one day, but ideally you should devote two or three days to it and stop to enjoy the hospitality and local dishes.

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